Over Exfoliating Can Accelerate Aging

The skin is an amazing organ and has many jobs. The skin protects our body from outside elements and microorganisms. Sebum on the epidermis forms a protective barrier and melanin protects us from the sun. It allows us to touch and feel, regulates our temperature and is a miracle in self-healing.  

We have two main layers of skin. 

The epidermis and the dermis. 

The dermal layer lies beneath the epidermis and is 25 times thicker. It contains blood and lymph vessels and is where collagen and elastin are made. 

The dermis consists of the papillary layer where cell replacement starts and the reticular layer where collagen is produced. It is our "box springs" and also what provides nourishment to the epidermis. The epidermis is our top protective layer. 

Starting at age 25, the dermal layer thins 1% every year. The epidermis actually consists of five layers and never thins. 

When it comes to aging, whether we are treating pigmentation or wrinkles, the go to thinking is to “ scrub it or peel it off”. 

The idea is that by removing the “old, dead” skin that new fresh skin will rush to the surface. The skin is not actually dead, it is still attached and communicating with the skin’s immune system. 

We may be causing more harm than good. 

Cell turnover does slow down as we age and there is a reason. The epidermis slows its natural shedding, known as desquamation, because the dermis is thinning.

That means its blood supply and nourishment are not as abundant and must preserve its resources. So “peeling” the skin or using harsh exfoliants will cause the dermis to continue to try and fix the epidermis, it’s like taking the shingles off the roof of your home, and may accelerate the breakdown of the dermal layer.

Too much exfoliation can disrupt the microbiome of the skin which creates a balance in the water and oil of the skin and its ability to repair. This disruption can also lead to redness, irritation, and dehydration. 

Exfoliating the skin in a gentle and thoughtful way can definitely improve dullness and hydration. But grinding away with microdermabrasion, harsh scrubs or strong acid solutions can lead to microtears in the epidermis and inflammation which will definitely accelerate aging.

This will create TEWL (trans epidermal water loss), free radical damage and allow other external factors to affect the skin. It also may not be the right thing for your skin. Thick oily skin may tolerate microdermabrasion better but even then it’s not necessary to go super hard. 

Using enzymes is my favorite way to exfoliate. There are slightly different strengths in enzymes, but they are gentle overall. 

Enzymes dissolve keratin, the protein in skin cells, and allows the skin that is just about to slough off anyway to detach from the other skin cells. 

I try to preserve the stratum corneum, the very top layer of the epidermis, as much as possible. I do provide dermaplaning but I use it sparingly and with oil to protect the skin. 

Here are some other ways to gently exfoliate daily. 

-Cleanse your skin in the morning and remove with a SOFT washcloth.

-Wash your face with an enzyme cleanser (Osmosis Purify) or very MILD alpha hydroxy acids (Roccoco Fruit Gel Wash).

-Use a SOFT brush.

-Exfoliating jojoba beads (Roccoco Polishing Cleanser).

-Enzyme or a clay mask once a week (Osmosis Polish, Roccoco Sulfur Mask).

Be kind to your skin. There is no need to abuse it in order to get the results you want. In fact, that will create the opposite effect.